As a bowmaker, the recent thread on rosin seemed the appropiate point for a comment. Rosin is very important. Equally so is the hair used and the skill of the rehairer. Insist on only the very finest double drawn white unbleached, unoiled hair and be willing to pay extra for it. Do NOT ask the rehairer to add extra hair into your bow. This will not enhance the playing qualities, tonal qualities, or make it last longer before the next rehair. Do not let the rehairer put any of the shop rosin on your bow unless your exact same type of rosin is used. Always clean the fresh hair with mild warm water followed by pure denatured ethyl alcohol. (wrap the stick in thin plastic kitchen wrap to prevent any alcohol from touching the stick) Do this several times with a clean old under shirt. Rosin up the bow with your brand of choice. Play the bow for 30 or 45 minutes. Carefully wrap the bow in kitchen plastic wrap again, repeating the ethyl alcohol cleaning but this time do not overly clean the hair. Only remove the excess rosin dust melting the remainder into and around each and every hair. Using a fine hair brush, (not a comb) carefully brush the hairs until they are completely dry making sure none are rosined together. Now, using your rosin of choice, rerosin the bow only to the point where all the hairs are coated. Make sure the bow is tightened to playing tension during all the above cleaning and rosining steps. Do not forget to clean your strings of old greasy rosin. Remember, rosin carries a strong negative electronic charge. Everytime you play the instrument, static electricity develops on the strings and hair attracting all sorts of dust, dirt, etc. The cleaner the strings and cleaner the well rosined bow, the more pure and consistant the tone. All the best, Dennis Braun, Bowmaker
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